A Family Visit to Monument Valley
As I write this the sky outside has changed from a terrifying, deep brown/orange color filled with chemicals and smoke from wildfires, to a weary but acceptable gray. The wreckage the United States is facing due to natural disasters and the Coronavirus is ‘unprecedented’ and astonishing. Sadly, I feel it is not so much ‘unprecedented’ as the predictable progress of climate change and the disregard with which we have treated our environment.
So what better place to spend some virtual time than the majestic and deeply fragile Monument Valley!
The money shot - the Mittens.
Monument Valley, the iconic, edifice-strewn northwestern corner of the Navajo Nation, is a place of such stunning beauty and serenity that it has an effect on even the most undiscerning visitor.
Over the last few months, The Navajo Nation has been one of the hardest hit areas in the U.S. by the COVID-19 pandemic. While a trip to this area now isn’t advisable, or even possible, the income that tourism brings will most likely be a pillar of economic recovery in the future.
The Navajo Nation spans more than 27,000 square miles through parts of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. On the reservation, an estimated 32% of all homes lack electricity, 31% do not have indoor plumbing, and 38% lack running water with a poverty rate around 43% in general. The contrast between the area’s breathtaking scenery and the poverty here is astounding and a sad and maddening reminder of the racial disparities in the US.
Our family visited this breathtaking corner of the world in late September 2019 and it was one of the most amazing landscapes I have ever seen. When it is safe to travel to Monument Valley in the future, this will be a great place to enjoy open space and wide vistas.
There is a $20 fee to enter Oljato-Monument Valley Park. Your National Parks Pass does not work here on the Navajo Nation. The admission fee allows you to drive the Monument Valley Loop drive, a 17 mile dirt road that takes you past most of the iconic views in the Valley. You cannot deviate from this road. If you want to see more of the Valley you will need to book a tour. We booked a tour with Navajo Spirit Tours and highly recommend them. It is a local, family-run business that emphasizes the rich history of the area and the culture of the Navajo people.
Big Hogan Arch in Monument Valley
The tour we took, the Monument Valley Sunset Tour, was about 3 hours long and went deep into the park to see several of the arches and hieroglyphics that were significant for the Anasazi people, the cliff dwellers, that lived in the Valley centuries ago.
Along the way our guide showed us ancient hieroglyphics from the Anasazi culture, remnants of supposed-granaries and even spelled out Navajo words in the sand, not minding my daughter’s attempt to play in the sand with him.
Enjoying the wind in the touring jeep.
The tour was a great way to visit the Valley with kids. We got to trek through the park in an open air ‘jeep’ that felt like an adventure to them. Besides our family of 4 there was a couple also on the tour with us. The vehicle had room for at least twice as many people so it felt luxurious to move around during the tour and our many stops.
The kids favorite spot was Ear of the Wind arch where they could climb and then roll down the sand dune in front of the arch. Thankfully our guide took the kids activity in stride (rolling down the hill is one of the favorite pastimes at the site apparently) and used the time to talk about his community in the Navajo Nation with us.
Ear of the Wind Arch in Monument Valley
When we visited Monument Valley we stayed in Kayenta, a small settlement about 20 miles outside Monument Valley. Originally, it was my idea to visit the Valley again the morning after our sunset tour, but for some strange reason, my family didn’t want to add another 60 miles to our day and we didn’t go back. Ugh! If you can afford it, I recommend staying right at Monument Valley. These accommodations are pricier but could be worth one night for the reward of sunset and sunrise at the Valley.
Just be careful if you stay in Kayenta and book a tour in Monument Valley. Kayenta is located in Arizona, which doesn’t practice daylight savings time, and Monument Valley is in Utah, which does practice daylight savings. Make sure you have your times right if you are trying to get to a tour in the Valley from Arizona.
Another visitor tip - make sure you use the restroom before your tour. There is NOWHERE to go to the bathroom once you are out on the tour. My 4-year old of course said she didn’t have to go when we were at the bathrooms before the tour. Then guess what happened an hour in? Parents - make them go before the trip!
Monument valley is an amazing place to visit. The landscape is dramatic and otherworldly and will make a deep impression on everyone who visits. Just make sure you visit safely and responsibly and support the people of the Navajo Nation when you do.
